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3/21/12

            Less than 24 hours after I’d taken the last of my final exams, I stepped from a plane into a bright and humid El Salvador, not quite comprehending that I was actually back in the country since my time there in 2010.  A decent number of taxi drivers hovered around me, yelling “Taxi, taxi!” over and over as I pushed through them to the sidewalk.

            “Taxi, taxi?”  That didn’t sound like a Salvadoran, I thought, and saw Quentin with a grin on his face and his arms open for a hug.  He and I climbed into Salvador’s taxi, and the three of us began my homecoming trip to La Casa de la Solidaridad. 

            Casa Romero greeted me with the sights, smells, and memories of a house I had learned to call home.  As the day drew on, I met the current Casa students, I saw many of the people who I missed so deeply—people including Lupita, Lydia, Neto, Julio, Saul and Samuel.  With the energy of life that seemed so profoundly rooted in all of them, I felt a rejuvenating sense of comfort and gratitude.  I was home.

            ***I’m currently in El Salvador to finish the research that I conducted in Peru for my thesis, which examines the role of music in social change and awareness in Latin America, with emphases in El Salvador and Peru.    

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(Ynés, Jaime, and Eduardo)
8.4.11
            On Thursday night, I shared a final supper with Grupo Siembra.  We sat in the corner of a warm, crowded restaurant, eating thickly layered ham sandwiches and ginger ale.  Ynés held up her glass.  “Toast, toast,” she said.  We toasted, and we talked, we joked, we laughed.  The tables around us, deep in their own conversations, roared with laughter, poured themselves another drink.  The happiness in the room was almost as tangible as the food itself.    
            “We’re planning a trip to the U.S.,” Eduardo said.  “It would be in April.  We want to stop in California and play a concert in your school and the nearby communities.”  He paused in contemplation, frowning.  “We would do some workshops too.”
            “To keep spreading the word about the condition of Peru, and to keep sharing our music,” Ynés said.  
            “But we’ll need a formal invitation,” Jaime said.  “For our visas.  It’s the only way the government will let us through.  Maybe from your university, if it works out.  We’ll need it by November.”
            “Also,” Eduardo said, “perhaps we can figure out a way to get to Bill Dexheimer.”  (*Bill is the priest in Minnesota who put me in touch with Gilmer; see the very first entry regarding Peru).  
            “So,” they said.  “How does this all sound?  Can you help us?”
            But I could already hear the music in my head, as if the end credits of a movie were about to start.  I looked at the three people sitting across from me, these three blessed people with so many gifts and so much hope for the world.  Although my time in Peru had ended, this friendship with Siembra was just beginning.  It doesn’t have to end here.  Let us take the seeds and sow them, and let them grow.
“Yes,” I said, feeling the smile on my face grow.  “Let’s make it happen.”

(Ynés, Jaime, and Eduardo)

8.4.11

            On Thursday night, I shared a final supper with Grupo Siembra.  We sat in the corner of a warm, crowded restaurant, eating thickly layered ham sandwiches and ginger ale.  Ynés held up her glass.  “Toast, toast,” she said.  We toasted, and we talked, we joked, we laughed.  The tables around us, deep in their own conversations, roared with laughter, poured themselves another drink.  The happiness in the room was almost as tangible as the food itself.   

            “We’re planning a trip to the U.S.,” Eduardo said.  “It would be in April.  We want to stop in California and play a concert in your school and the nearby communities.”  He paused in contemplation, frowning.  “We would do some workshops too.”

            “To keep spreading the word about the condition of Peru, and to keep sharing our music,” Ynés said. 

            “But we’ll need a formal invitation,” Jaime said.  “For our visas.  It’s the only way the government will let us through.  Maybe from your university, if it works out.  We’ll need it by November.”

            “Also,” Eduardo said, “perhaps we can figure out a way to get to Bill Dexheimer.”  (*Bill is the priest in Minnesota who put me in touch with Gilmer; see the very first entry regarding Peru). 

            “So,” they said.  “How does this all sound?  Can you help us?”

            But I could already hear the music in my head, as if the end credits of a movie were about to start.  I looked at the three people sitting across from me, these three blessed people with so many gifts and so much hope for the world.  Although my time in Peru had ended, this friendship with Siembra was just beginning.  It doesn’t have to end here.  Let us take the seeds and sow them, and let them grow.

“Yes,” I said, feeling the smile on my face grow.  “Let’s make it happen.”

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8.2.11

Pictures from my final Sunday in Peru—I played piano for two masses and then went with Padre Jorge to a retreat outside of Lima to celebrate mass with a group of teenagers.  “You’re brave,” Jorge said.  “Few people would listen to me give the same homily three times in a row.” 

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8.1.11            
Eduardo was a busy man.  He was never free—he always ran from one commitment to the next.  Although he had nearly single-handedly helped me to develop my program before my arrival, I barely saw him in the four weeks I was in Peru.  I heard his songs, read his lyrics, and listened to him sing on the recordings, but simply didn’t have the chance to sit down with him and talk as I had done with the other Siembra members.  And as the current director of Siembra, and as the most prolific composer of the group, he was one who I had hoped to talk to the most.  I was disappointed, to say the least, that our time together was so little.
            And I was surprised to find myself telling him all this on Monday afternoon in the first minutes of our time together that he allocated for each afternoon of my last week in Lima.  We sat in a packed restaurant over bowls of soup filled with potatoes and some kind of meat.  I poked at a bone with my spoon as I spoke, and saw his eyes fill with pain when I spoke to him of my disappointment.
            “But I have to thank you, Eduardo,” I said.  “Because without your help, I would have never made it here.  You walked with me for those months of planning; now that I’m here and see how busy you are, I know what a sacrifice that was.  Thank you for supporting me.  Thank you for believing in me.”
            “I know I’ve been absent,” Eduardo said.  “You came at a difficult time for me—I have an incredible amount of work right now.  I’ve barely had a moment for myself.  But know that I haven’t forgotten about you, and that I’m glad you’re here in Peru and having this experience.  And now here we are together for this week.  Let’s make the best of it.”  
            We did.  
             At the end of hours of interview over the next three days, I finally turned off my voice recorder.  “Thank you, Eduardo, for your music, and for your faith, for your friendship.  You’re a great person.”
            He shrugged with a smile, opening his palms as if to say no need to say that.  
            “Of course, Cristóbal,” he said, and gave me a hug.  “We’ll see each other soon.”

8.1.11           

Eduardo was a busy man.  He was never free—he always ran from one commitment to the next.  Although he had nearly single-handedly helped me to develop my program before my arrival, I barely saw him in the four weeks I was in Peru.  I heard his songs, read his lyrics, and listened to him sing on the recordings, but simply didn’t have the chance to sit down with him and talk as I had done with the other Siembra members.  And as the current director of Siembra, and as the most prolific composer of the group, he was one who I had hoped to talk to the most.  I was disappointed, to say the least, that our time together was so little.

            And I was surprised to find myself telling him all this on Monday afternoon in the first minutes of our time together that he allocated for each afternoon of my last week in Lima.  We sat in a packed restaurant over bowls of soup filled with potatoes and some kind of meat.  I poked at a bone with my spoon as I spoke, and saw his eyes fill with pain when I spoke to him of my disappointment.

            “But I have to thank you, Eduardo,” I said.  “Because without your help, I would have never made it here.  You walked with me for those months of planning; now that I’m here and see how busy you are, I know what a sacrifice that was.  Thank you for supporting me.  Thank you for believing in me.”

            “I know I’ve been absent,” Eduardo said.  “You came at a difficult time for me—I have an incredible amount of work right now.  I’ve barely had a moment for myself.  But know that I haven’t forgotten about you, and that I’m glad you’re here in Peru and having this experience.  And now here we are together for this week.  Let’s make the best of it.” 

            We did. 

             At the end of hours of interview over the next three days, I finally turned off my voice recorder.  “Thank you, Eduardo, for your music, and for your faith, for your friendship.  You’re a great person.”

            He shrugged with a smile, opening his palms as if to say no need to say that. 

            “Of course, Cristóbal,” he said, and gave me a hug.  “We’ll see each other soon.”

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7.29.11

I spent another day at Gilmer’s house, again eager to talk to the composer as much as I could.  And during those hours that we were together, I realized what a beautiful family this wonderful man had.  His wife, Rosa, was friendly, generous, funny and easy-going.  Their eighteen-year-old son, Juan Diego, was courteous and nice.  And their sixteen-year-old daughter, Lupe, was witty, smart, and energetic.  She dreamt of studying medicine, and satisfied her love and talent for fine arts by looking at medicine as an art in itself.  The family easily sat at the dining room table together, tossing around jokes, sharing stories, eating, laughing, and sincerely enjoying each other’s presence.  It didn’t appear to be a fluke, or a show put on for me, the visitor.  It was genuine; it was real.

We ended the night listening to music—Gilmer’s children sang along to the recordings of his songs, and I later passed along my own songs to Rosa’s flash drive. 
At six pm, Gilmer sighed, and settled down in his chair, and turned on the TV.  “Time for the 60 year old to watch his show,” he said, laughing.  “Come sit down if you’d like, Cristóbal.”  And again he said, for maybe the fourth time that day, “Que bien, Cristóbal, que bien que estés aquí.”  How nice it is that you’re here.  And I could have stayed there for hours more—for days more.  “You always have a home here,” Rosa and Gilmer said.  “Whenever you come back, you always have a home.”

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7.28.11

            When riding a public bus in Lima, it is common to see someone board, stand in the middle of the aisle, and begin to tell a story aimed at grabbing your attention and coaxing the sympathy necessary to buy one of the candies they sell.  The stories range from a sibling’s cancer to a parent’s mental retardation.  All of the vendors use the same style of voice to tell their story—a whining drawl that cuts through the noise of the bus and the panicked pace of the other cars.  And after the story is told, the vendor always shuffles down the bus aisle, mumbling indistinguishable words and holding the candy bag open, hoping to maybe earn five or six soles by the time they reach the back. 

            On Independence Day, I rode the bus to Gilmer’s house so we could continue interviewing, talking, and, later, celebrating with his family.  On my bus, two girls, probably no more than eight years old, began the vendor drawl, and clutched a clear bag of packaged candies in their hands.  And then they moved down the aisle, using the same mumble I had heard from adult vendors so many times.  When they passed me, I looked at the bus driver’s mirror, which was vibrating heavily as we drove.  Through it, I saw the rattling image of one of the small girls, clad in a dirty pink fleece sweater, passing by the final shambled seats of the decrepit bus.  Who was she?  Who was her friend?  Why did they have to sell candy on the bus?  And now that they departed, where would they go with their pitiful amount of money?  It was a heart-breaking site amidst the avenues of celebration and joy, the hope that with this Independence Day would come a better future for Peru. 

            Peru’s independence day coincided with the changing of the government.  Gilmer and I watched the new president give his initiation speech.  President Humala spoke of education reform, better programs to help delinquents and better street security.  And finally, he spoke of his goal to banish corruption from the government.  Fourteen presidents from other countries attended the presidential address—this was unheard of in Peruvian history.

            “That’s because this is the first leftist president ever elected,” Rosa, Gilmer’s wife, told me.  “The other presidents like him, and want him to know that they support him.”  We watched the applause, and, also, a smaller group booing and shaking a copy of the Peruvian constitution in the air. 

            “Those people support Fujimori,” Gilmer said.  “So of course they’re going to protest against Humala.  They’re two completely different people.  I’m glad Humala talked about those changes, especially the things about education.  But as you know, it’s easy to say big things your first day in office.  We’ll see if he can actually follow through.”

            For the rest of the day, Gilmer and I talked about his music, about his inspirations, and how he hoped his music could bring about change in Peru.  We listened to his albums, and I heard the power of his songs leaving the computer’s speakers and nestling into my heart.  I watched him as we listened, his face a comfortable smile that wrinkled his forehead and bunched his eyelids together.  He looked peaceful and satisfied as he listened to his voice from twenty years ago singing, and listened to the songs that were completely his, and to the words that were inspired by the grand injustices he witnessed in his country.

            “My songs are meant to be an idea,” he said.  “An idea that can be spread in the hearts of all who sing them, all who listen to them, all who internalize them.  One day, that seed will flourish.  I believe that.  It won’t happen in my time.  But I’ve done my work, and am still working, and can only hope that the people after me carry on in the same way.”

            “Now,” he said, settling back in his chair.  “Let’s listen some more.  I haven’t heard this recording in a long time.”

            That night, I went to the Plaza de Armas with Jaime and his fourteen-year-old son Oscar to see the festivities for Independence Day.  I had never seen the plaza so crowded before—we had to literally push and force ourselves through the masses lest we be swallowed by waves of people, folkloric dance circles, and cultural parades.

            Amidst the madness, I saw an image that brought everything else to a halt.  It was a young boy, probably seven years old, sitting on his dad’s shoulders.  He held an inflatable Spider-man action figure, looking at it with wonder and conviction.  He raised it up, lowered it down, and I could see his imagination racing, creating a world where he and his toy zipped through the city, slinging webs and whipping around corners, rocketing high into the sky and plunging with a rush of energy and a racing heart.  It reminded me of one of my interactions with a Batman toy when I was eight; I carried it back and forth on the walkway next to our garden, watching the wind catch the character’s tiny cape.  Batman was flying through the air, soon to bring the criminals hiding in the garden to justice.  It was a sunny day.

            All this, in only thirty seconds of watching this small boy in Lima.  His dad took him off of his shoulders, and they disappeared into the crowd.

            After an hour more of celebratory chaos, Jaime, Oscar and I went to a quiet restaurant for sodas and to talk about Jaime’s role in Siembra.  Oscar ordered ice cream.  “They only have lucema flavor,” he said.  “Oh well, that’ll do.” 

            “The songs that I wrote, and the songs the others wrote, are designed to educate,” Jaime said.  “And as you see, Siembra lives what it writes about.  We’re not sitting on a pedestal, preaching about a reality we don’t actually know about.  No—we have our own families, our own jobs, our own lives, and our own struggles.  We wouldn’t have the right to compose these songs if we didn’t share the reality.”  By this time, Oscar had finished his ice cream, and was watching the restaurant TV with amusement.

“We all hope that some day, with the help of these songs, people will bring about the change that Peru needs,” Jaime said.

            “Is that why all of the Siembra members have jobs in education right now?” I asked.

            “That’s more of a coincidence, I think.  But Ynés, Eduardo, Gilmer and I have a dream to build a Siembra school so we can be much more hands on with our educating.  It would be a school that taught music, history, and theology.  And the songs would supplement it all.  Imagine a school like that, where students are taught Peru’s history and current conditions in the context of liberation.  That’s our dream.  We’ve been talking about it for fourteen years now.  It would be expensive.  It would be hard to get it started.  But how wonderful it would be.”

            How wonderful it would be.     

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7.24.11

My alarm sounded far too early on Sunday morning, and I drowsily reached my hand through a tangle of blankets to delay its call for another five minutes.  I was tired enough that the thought of climbing out of bed, showering, and playing piano for mass seemed to be an impossibly overzealous task.  It didn’t help that my room, with its thick, blotched yellow glass and dark curtains, blocked out all but a faint glow of light during all hours of the day.  For all I knew, the clock was wrong and it was still three in the morning.  Perhaps, I thought, the chapel would call and say that there was no need for music that morning, and that I could continue sleeping, and that, in fact, I could sleep for the rest of the day.  There there, I heard their voices say, don’t worry about anything.  Just get the rest you need.  Go right back to sleep, sleep…

The alarm rang again, perhaps a bit more violently, insisting that I discard the wishful thinking, that I remember the feelings of satisfaction I always found when playing music for mass, and wake up.  The chapel coordinator would be at the house to pick me up no later than 8 am.

The night before, Ynés told me that she would call me early in the morning to tell me who would pick me up.  When I didn’t hear from her, I called her home, just to discover that she was currently at the market buying bread.  I asked her husband Godo to pass along the message that she call me back.  I waited.  By eight o’clock, I had heard nothing.  I called Ynés again, who told me I should go to the chapel with Elena, who then told me she didn’t know where the chapel was.  By 8:35, we called the main community office.  No answer.  I called Padre Jorge.  No answer.  Elena tried calling.  Nothing.  I sat on a kitchen stool, frustrated with Ynés and with the lack of communication, watching the clock hands creep forward to 9:15.  The mass was to start at 9:30.

            Finally, Julio, who worked closely with Padre Jorge, answered the phone and declared that he would come to get me.  As we stuttered towards the chapel in a mototaxi, I wondered why this hadn’t been arranged in advance, and why I would have to explain my tardiness to the choir that had been waiting for me for over an hour.  I asked Julio the same questions, and he said he was sorry, and that it wouldn’t happen again.  We entered the chapel—Jesús Nazareno, and I met the choir only five minutes before mass.

            “So, what are we singing?”  I asked.  Predictably, I didn’t know any of the songs, and, in horror, realized that there was no guitarist—I was the only instrumentalist.  It was now three minutes until mass.  “Well, maybe you can sing the opening song for me?”

            They sang, wavering in and out of key and rhythm, looking at me expectantly as I fumbled around the keyboard, trying to decipher which key they were most likely to stay in.  “That’s all we have time for,” they said, and the mass began.  I didn’t know any of the progressions, rhythms, or keys for any of the songs.  And I was supposed to play all of them.  

            The first song wasn’t a complete disaster, thanks to the fifteen seconds of rehearsal we had before.  For the remainder of the songs, I had to rely on the choir member my age that sat next to me, whisper-singing the melodies while Padre Jorge presided.  It wasn’t at all helpful and was off-key, but with nothing else to go by, I listened.  “Ok, I think I have it,” I lied, and waited for the next mass part to arrive, the next moment that I cleave my way through a song, completely guessing where the melody would go, and which chords would run underneath.  Because the congregation was small that day, the songs were brief enough that I never really had the chance to latch onto any distinct patterns.  The last comedic straw was when I listened to a little boy in the choir behind me belt out the communion song a whole step higher than the piano, grinning and waving as I turned around to glance at him.  But how could I be disappointed by him, a child so willing to sing and to be heard? 

            What disappointed me the most about the morning was that this choir had been waiting for me, had been expecting me, had been excited for me to play with them.  It was a lost opportunity.  And I wouldn’t have another chance with them during my trip.  I shared this with Padre Jorge when he drove me back home; he told me not to worry, and that he’d talk with Julio to make sure that the coordination for the other masses wouldn’t be so unorganized.  “You might not think it,” he said, “but even in a situation like this, you add a lot.  No matter what, it’s always good to have you play.”

            In the afternoon, I gave a choir workshop to a group of about thirty people from the surrounding chapels in San Juan de Lurigancho.  They were only shyly receptive at first, but with a little bit of coaxing, the group was soon far more likely to participate, to laugh, and to have fun.  We began with solfege, and I taught them the hand signs that go with do-re-mi.  Then we played a game where I made the hand signs and they sang the pitch.  We battled their tendency to go out of tune, pausing in delight when their voices finally blended and the sound popped into the room.  “Did you hear that?  Did you hear that?”  I said.  “Every single one of you has the potential to sing in tune.  The trick is doing it consistently.”  As I talked, I imagined myself in front of my own music teachers, watching in wonder as they seemingly effortlessly pulled the best sounds from us, with little more than a few descriptive words.  I tried to do the same, and only hoped I was doing these people justice, and my teachers justice, and myself justice as I waved my arms around and attempted to make sense of the drastic difference in age and voice quality amidst the people in front of me.  And at the end of each segment of the workshop, I quoted my literature teacher from El Salvador by saying,

            “Questions?”  Nothing.

            “Comments?”  Nothing.

            “Insults?”  Laughter.

            A man in the back raised his hand.  “I want to learn how to conduct,” he said.  Soon, I had the group moving their arms in basic movements of two, three, and four.  I brought the man to the front of the room.  “He’s going to direct us as we sing the Alleluia, ok?”  The first time was a magnificent failure.  “Not to worry,” I said, “we’ll try again.”  It didn’t take him too long to succeed. 

            We ended with Sihyahamba, and I called upon the Immaculada Concepción choir to teach it to the others (See 7.12.11 entry).  And, as there was only one verse in Spanish, we thought up two more verses.  “There,” I said.  “Now you have a new gathering song.” 

            In the back of the room, I saw Ynés and Eduardo watching.  When I finished, Eduardo would give an hour-long workshop, and then Grupo Siembra would play a concert. 

            “To begin,” Eduardo said with a smile after I sat down, “why do we sing?”  He masterfully managed his workshop, inspiring his listeners and making us feel calm and welcome with his easy grin and casual mannerisms, while still holding a distinct sense of authority—a man who truly knew his stuff and wasn’t afraid to share it with the world. 

            Later, he and Ynés set up for their concert, and invited me to play with them.  “You’ve been listening to the songs, right?”  Ynés asked.

            “Of course.”  And I had been—every night, I fell asleep with Siembra playing in my ear.

            It was in that moment that I noticed a man unpacking wind instruments and slinging a quena around his neck.  “Are you Jaime?”  I asked.  The only member of Siembra I hadn’t yet met. 

            “Yes, yes I am,” he said, smiling.  We shook hands, and the concert began.  

            Before each song, Jaime told me the chords that we’d use.  And as we played, I watched Eduardo, who moved his body as he played guitar, a smile plastered on his face as he sang.  Ynés played percussion, and Jaime switched between wind instruments and guitar.  There was true energy and true happiness in the songs and in the performance—these people were filled with so much faith.  I too smiled uncontrollably as I played with them, adding piano into the songs I had heard in recordings, and had admired.  And now, I stood with these very people as we shared what we had for the group in front of us.  The songs carried a different kind of power when they were played live, and showed me the potential that they carried, a potential that was brought to full light in this very moment.  Already, I was having thoughts of how I would take these songs back to the U.S., and how they could be shared with the people there as they deserved to be shared.  But those thoughts were put to the side in the present moment, and my full attention was put into the concert, a concert that lifted my heart, that brought me joy, and that made me thank all who had made it possible for me to be there, to be together with Grupo Siembra and amongst the people who had inspired their songs. 

            After the concert, many people thanked me for the workshop, and thanked Siembra for their music.  “I hope you can come back someday to teach us more,” one of them said.  A woman from Immaculada Concepción approached me.  “I’m wondering if you can make me a CD with the recording of our choir singing that song you taught us.  Because, the truth is, I’ve never heard myself singing before, and it would mean so much to me to have it.”

            “Yes, of course.  What’s your name?”

            “Edith.”

            “Ok, Edith.  I will make that disc for you.”

            We departed, and I thought of the evening, and my heart was filled.  It didn’t matter how tired I had been in the morning, or how tired I was now.  I was happy, and needed to understand that it was happiness like this that would continue to direct my path, that it would continue to help me discern just what it was I would be doing with the rest of my life. 

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7.23.11

           

It was time for me to return to Lima.  Thank you, Mom, Ryan, and Jeff, for a wonderful trip together.  Thank you for the chance to see truly beautiful parts of Peru, share important and happy moments together, and for the space to absorb and enjoy all that we saw while being together.  With love, I see you off on the rest of your trip to Puno as my plane brings me back to San Juan de Lurigancho, just in time to play mass tomorrow morning.  I’ll see you soon. 

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7.22.11

On my second day in Machu Picchu, Jeff and I climbed to the Sun Gate, which was an hour hike away from Machu Picchu city.  We followed the Inca trail, finally ending at a viewpoint that was perched high above the city, granting us a glimpse of the architectural wonder from a place few people went.  The mountains circled us, their peaks stretching into the bright sun and blue sky.

            I decided to climb another mountain that day—the mountain named “Machu Picchu.”  Quechua for “old mountain,” Machu Picchu stood behind the city, while the more iconic mountain, Huyana Picchu (“new mountain”) stood in front. 

            I ascended alone and endured one of the most challenging hikes of my life.  For ninety minutes, I walked on steep stone stairwells that extended endlessly, stopped at a corner, and then resumed all over again.  Halfway up, I was exhausted, drenched in sweat by the sun, and dwindling in water supply.  Finally, legs burning and heart pounding, I stopped in the middle of the stairs to pant, and saw two other foreigners passing back down. 

            “How much further?”  I asked, longing for a welcome answer.

            “Ah, about forty minutes more.”

            I wasn’t about to turn around, so I kept going up the narrow stairwells.  If they were any steeper, they’d be ladders.  With each corner brought new hope of reaching the top, and with it the disappointment of seeing yet another small mountain to conquer.  I kept walking.  I stopped to rest.  And then I kept going up again.  And up.  And up. 

            At the top, a giant rainbow flag—resembling the sacred colors of the Incas—flapped in the wind.  Machu Picchu city was a tiny patch of construction far below; now, the mountains were the true spectacle.  They cleaved the sky and stacked behind each other in rows of spotted greens and browns.  The clouds cast dark shadows on the massive bodies, which in turn cast their own shadows on the Urbamba river, now a tiny string of white whose sound of rushing water couldn’t hope to penetrate the peaks of the mountains and the powerful wind.  It was amazing to think that every corner of this small part of the world held its own type of awe.  From the magnificence of the tallest peak to the intimacy of the smallest room in the city, Machu Picchu embodied the feelings wonder and mystery of a city that once thrived and was then forgotten.  It was a gift to walk the paths the Incas once walked, and to look upon the same mountains that they saw.  May their memory be forever preserved and respected.   

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It was a three-hour train ride to Aguas Calientes, and then a thirty-minute bus ride to Machu Picchu.  Our train passed through the Sacred Valley and took us high into the mountains, bringing us closer to the landscape than a highway ever could.  I waited in anticipation to arrive as we paralleled with the Urubamba River and saw sun-illuminated peaks of the mountains far away, passing through fields and hills that later changed for jungle, signaling that we were nearly there.  Finally, the train stopped, and we boarded the bus, and arrived at Machu Picchu’s gates.  We passed through, turned a few corners, and were brought into the heart of the ruins, the magnificent wonder of the world hidden away high in the misty mountains.  My family stood, together, in the lost city of Machu Picchu.